A (very wet) Cruise on Doubtful Sound

Doubtful Sound was originally named Doubtful Harbour by James Cook in 1770 because he was doubtful that his vessel would be able to sail out again because of the prevailing winds and the alignment of the Sound. It's approximately 40 kms long and over 400 metres deep at the deepest point. The nearest settlement is Manapouri about 50kms away. Its average annual rainfall is up to 6000mm! We spent two days getting to, and sailing on Doubtful Sound. It rained heavily most of the time and at points along the main channel the wind was so strong the Fiordland Navigator, our cruise ship had to take shelter.

On the approach to the small harbour at Manapouri, the departure point for cruises on Doubtful Sound, we saw this amazing rainbow which seemed to be lying very low almost on the surface of Lake Manapouri

Unlike Milford Sound, where you can drive right up to the cruise boat pier, Doubtful Sound can only be accessed first by crossing Lake Manapouri in a fast, 45min catamaran ride. Passengers are then transferred to a coach that takes you over the Wilmot Pass on a steep and windy road before you can embark onto the cruise ship.

Curiously, although all the cabins appeared to be the same size, some were accessible via an inside passageway while others, including ours, were only accessible through a door onto this walkway. Once the weather blew up you had to be very careful to both open the access door and then your cabin door so as not to get soaked. Which of course happened to me the first time!

A view off the back of the Fiordland Navigator with rain pouring off the top deck

Probably the best waterfall seen on our wet cruise - the orange moss-laden rocks contrasted perfectly with the misty green foliage. Most of the waterfalls were the product of the rain while a few were overflows from lakes on the tops of the Sound.

Heading towards the open ocean

A flash of colour amidst the drab misty reaches of Doubtful Sound. Even in the stormy rain we paused for a few brave tourists to go for a kayak ride or to take a run in one of the Navigator's two dinghies. A couple of the hardiest passengers even took a brief swim in the icy waters.

Rain and mist, rain and mist everywhere.

To give an idea of how isolated this part of the world is - this was the only other vessel spotted in the two days we were in the Sound - it's isolation is a part of the Sound's attraction, no matter the weather.